Waves travel thousands of miles across the Pacific just for us to shred them
every break has it’s favored tides, which is mainly due to the bathymetry of that specific break. However, usually most spots favor a ‘low going high’ or when the tide is on the rise, ‘filling in’. This is the believed “tidal push” which may help the forward momentum of waves. The tide is pushing in as the waves move in, toward a common direction, a surge if you will. Whereas, an outgoing tide may counter the the incoming momentum of waves to a very small degree.
Read the buoys
Wind waves, being shorter in length, feel the bottom of the ocean less. This makes them peakier and not wrap around points very well. Long ground swells will usually break all at once at a beach break and close out. Points and reefs are better for ground swell. All the water moving in a ground swell piles up on itself when it breaks and will make the surf height significantly bigger than the open water swell height.
Surf height: wave height when breaking Swell height: wave height in open ocean
Swell height to Surf height depends on wave period and (this is the tricky part) local spot characteristics.
In Southern California, strong winds blow west of Point Conception and create northwest wind swell that varies in period from 4-12 seconds and from a direction of 275-330.
- D Street
- Cardiff (San Elijo/Campgrounds)
- Cardiff Reef
- Solana Beach
- Parking Lots
- Del Mar
- 15th Street
- 11th Street
- La Jolla
Moving to low tide helps the shape, but can suck out the energy.
Main Leucadia break at the end of Leucadia Blvd.
Entance at the end of S El Portal
Stairway at the end of D street, literally the block south of Moonlight.
I Street viewpoint looks out over boneyards.
General name for all San Elijo breaks? Hard to tell. But I like parking on the coast highway and then taking the ramp or the north stairs down.
South side of the campgrounds by the more official looking campground entrance
South of seaside, entrance is at the end of Solana Vista.
Surf your best from surfline has a lot of good tips to think about.
- pros in slomo
- look where you want to go
- smooth movement
- lower chest for final paddle in order to smooth the plane, raise chest for popup
- back first plants first
- hands onboard until both feet planted
- low center of gravity into bottom turn to generate speed
- old guy with whiteboard
- go with the momentum of the “tumbler” white water
- face down, where you want to go
- backfoot push down forward through board
- Rusty Slayer II
- CI Twin Pin
Rusty sista brotha
5'10" x 19.75" x 2.4" | 30.81L
6'2" x 19" x 2.375" | 28.4
- too little volume, struggled at Blacks with this one so it was time to go
- Pyzel Gremlin
5'8" x 20" x 2.5" | 31.60L
- CI Fish
5'8" x 20 1/2" x 2 5/16" | 31.6L
- thin 4+4/4 glass “ultra light”
Coanda Effect – fluid attaches itself to a curved surface
- Match water line, for speed, no control
- rise “above” the water line (as in towards the board)
- add lift and speed
- double concave
- sink “below” the water line (as in away from the board)
- Front rocker
- more rocker = easier to maneuver
- helps late takeoffs in hollow waves (big waves)
- Tail rocker
- more pivot, slower in general
Small, mushy and weak waves: Choose surfboards with less rocker. Good, powerful and steep waves: Choose surfboards with more rocker
- Fiberglassing (with tint)
- The fiberglass cloth weight, 6oz or 4oz, and layers are the biggest factors
- standard is 2 layers on top, one on bottom
- Hot coat (required)
The Hotcoat more or less fills in the gaps left in the weave of the cloth after lamination. This not only gives you a smooth surface, but helps prevent water from seeping into the board over time.
- hot coat always sanded
- Gloss coat (not required)
can be polished or sanded, sanded a little lighter/faster
Gloss finish is heavier, old school, but protects a little more than sanded
small patches of cloth can be used to strengthen sections (like the fin boxes)
- Larger has more hold and control in bigger surf, smaller is looser
- longer is more control, shorter is looser
- arc of the fin, more arc is good for big strong days, small arc good forweak chop
- aerodynamic shape
- degree of outward angle, more control and less speed
- Produce drive while providing hold
- Loosen board
- Control from sliding out, less speed down the line
- Theoretical best of both worlds. The closer and further back the fins are, the more like a thruster. Higher and further apart, more like a twin fin.
- F6 are middle of the road (M) and good for 180 lbs daily drivers
- F8 are Large, better for speed on grovelers and hold on step ups
- can use sex wax tropical (quick humps blue) as base
Tropical and Warm water wax are harder waxes than Cool and Cold water waxes, Tropical being the hardest wax and cold being the softest wax. Base coat is super hard wax.
- Remove fins
- Remove leash
- Peel off slowly
- Get glue off with citrus remover
Creatures of Leisure makes a solid leash. Reliance line is middle of the road (superlight is $$$ and icon is $). Within a lineup there are sizes (leash thickness): lite < comp < pro < reef. 5mm to 9mm. I think 6mm for smaller wave boards, 7mm for overhead+.
- Rip Curl (my size is MT)
- ONiels don’t make a size that fits me (somewhere in the nomans land between M, MT, and L)
- 2/2, zipless, short sleeve
- 4/3 Flashbomb
Self seal pipe insulation for cushion
Dowel or PVC for rods
Rubber floor mat
Spade bit for making holes
Lessons from the first project:
- only make the rods about 18" long and get them at least 1" thick
Ever wonder how to take a non-fancy Subaru WRX key and NOT set off the alarm?
- While inside the car in the driver seat, lock all of the doors using the keyfob or the power lock button. Note the rapidly blinking red light on the dashboard.
- Unlock the driver door manually and get out. Note the red light should now be blinking slowly.
- Close the door and lock it with the key. The red light should still be blinking slowly and the alarm will not go off when you open the door.