10 Sep 2021

Surf

Waves travel thousands of miles across the Pacific just for us to shred them

Ocean

Tides

every break has it’s favored tides, which is mainly due to the bathymetry of that specific break. However, usually most spots favor a ‘low going high’ or when the tide is on the rise, ‘filling in’. This is the believed “tidal push” which may help the forward momentum of waves. The tide is pushing in as the waves move in, toward a common direction, a surge if you will. Whereas, an outgoing tide may counter the the incoming momentum of waves to a very small degree.

Read the buoys

Wind waves, being shorter in length, feel the bottom of the ocean less. This makes them peakier and not wrap around points very well. Long ground swells will usually break all at once at a beach break and close out. Points and reefs are better for ground swell. All the water moving in a ground swell piles up on itself when it breaks and will make the surf height significantly bigger than the open water swell height.

Surf height: wave height when breaking Swell height: wave height in open ocean

Swell height to Surf height depends on wave period and (this is the tricky part) local spot characteristics.

In Southern California, strong winds blow west of Point Conception and create northwest wind swell that varies in period from 4-12 seconds and from a direction of 275-330.

Spots

North County

Grandview

Moving to low tide helps the shape, but can suck out the energy.

Beacons

Main Leucadia break at the end of Leucadia Blvd.

Stonesteps

Entance at the end of S El Portal

D Street

Stairway at the end of D street, literally the block south of Moonlight.

Boneyards

I Street viewpoint looks out over boneyards.

Pipes

General name for all San Elijo breaks? Hard to tell. But I like parking on the coast highway and then taking the ramp or the north stairs down.

85s

South side of the campgrounds by the more official looking campground entrance

Tabletops

South of seaside, entrance is at the end of Solana Vista.

Skill

Surf your best from surfline has a lot of good tips to think about.

Pop up

Duck dive

Equipment

Boards

Quiver

Step Up
Daily Driver
Step Down/Grovler
Fish
Single Fin

Bottom Contours

Rocker

Small, mushy and weak waves: Choose surfboards with less rocker. Good, powerful and steep waves: Choose surfboards with more rocker

Glassing

  1. Fiberglassing (with tint)
  1. Hot coat (required)

The Hotcoat more or less fills in the gaps left in the weave of the cloth after lamination. This not only gives you a smooth surface, but helps prevent water from seeping into the board over time.

  1. Gloss coat (not required)

Fins

Futures

Grip

Wax

Tropical and Warm water wax are harder waxes than Cool and Cold water waxes, Tropical being the hardest wax and cold being the softest wax. Base coat is super hard wax.

Traction Pad

Leash

Creatures of Leisure makes a solid leash. Reliance line is middle of the road (superlight is $$$ and icon is $). Within a lineup there are sizes (leash thickness): lite < comp < pro < reef. 5mm to 9mm. I think 6mm for smaller wave boards, 7mm for overhead+.

Wetsuit

Spring Suit

Full Suit

Rack

Lessons from the first project:

Car key

Ever wonder how to take a non-fancy Subaru WRX key and NOT set off the alarm?

  1. While inside the car in the driver seat, lock all of the doors using the keyfob or the power lock button. Note the rapidly blinking red light on the dashboard.
  2. Unlock the driver door manually and get out. Note the red light should now be blinking slowly.
  3. Close the door and lock it with the key. The red light should still be blinking slowly and the alarm will not go off when you open the door.

yonson