15 Jan 2022

Surf

Waves travel thousands of miles just for us to shred them

Ocean

Tides

every break has it’s favored tides, which is mainly due to the bathymetry of that specific break. However, usually most spots favor a ‘low going high’ or when the tide is on the rise, ‘filling in’. This is the believed “tidal push” which may help the forward momentum of waves. The tide is pushing in as the waves move in, toward a common direction, a surge if you will. Whereas, an outgoing tide may counter the the incoming momentum of waves to a very small degree.

I dunno man, kinda seems like just the extremes, spring tides, suck.

Read the buoys

Wind waves, being shorter in length, feel the bottom of the ocean less. This makes them peakier and not wrap around points very well. Long ground swells will usually break all at once at a beach break and close out. Points and reefs are better for ground swell. All the water moving in a ground swell piles up on itself when it breaks and will make the surf height significantly bigger than the open water swell height.

Swell height to Surf height depends on wave period and (this is the tricky part) local spot characteristics.

San Diego buoys:

In Southern California, strong winds blow west of Point Conception and create northwest wind swell that varies in period from 4-12 seconds and from a direction of 275-330.

Weather

Episodes of El Niño and La Niña typically last nine to 12 months, but can sometimes last for years. El Niño and La Niña events occur every two to seven years, on average, but they don’t occur on a regular schedule. Generally, El Niño occurs more frequently than La Niña.

Skill

Pop up

Trimmin and Carvin

Duck dive

Cut back

Floater

Equipment

Boards

Pretty much every aspect of board is a trade off between speed (which brings stability btw) and control. Surfboards and airplane wings share a lot of the same physics, but only one has been extensively studied over the past one hundred years…it’s airplane wings.

Size

Length and width are only part of the picture. A surfer’s skill can optimize a boards strengths and hide weaknesses, but they have to be good enough to take advantage.

Contours

Rocker

Small, mushy and weak waves: Choose surfboards with less rocker. Good, powerful and steep waves: Choose surfboards with more rocker

Tail

wider tails offer more stability and float, and will give you a faster planing speed. While, narrower tails are going to make rolling from rail to rail a little easier. They can also help hold a board steadier on a steeper faced wave.

The shape of the tail’s edges make a difference too. A tail that has rounder angles or no angles at all, is going to help you ‘hold’ the water for a little longer. This means that you will have more control of the board. When a tail has harder angles, more water will “release” and you will have a looser, more snappy feel to the board.

Rails

Materials

Glassing

  1. Fiberglassing
  1. Hot coat (resin)

The Hotcoat more or less fills in the gaps left in the weave of the cloth after lamination. This not only gives you a smooth surface, but helps prevent water from seeping into the board over time.

  1. Gloss coat (not required)

Fins

Formations

Characteristics

Wax

Tropical and Warm water wax are harder waxes than Cool and Cold water waxes, Tropical being the hardest wax and cold being the softest wax. Base coat is super hard wax.

Leash

Creatures of Leisure makes a solid leash. Reliance line is middle of the road (superlight is $$$ and icon is $). Within a lineup there are sizes (leash thickness): lite < comp < pro < reef. 5mm to 9mm. I think 6mm for smaller wave boards, 7mm for overhead+.

Spots

North County

Spots from North to South:

Grandview

Grandview really needs a low to mid tide, as too much water gets up to the cliffs and there’s not much beach. And with scattered rocks on the bottom, reefy options present themselves when the tide drops.

Beacons

Stonesteps

D Street

Boneyards

Pipes

85s

Tabletops